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F I B E R
Vicunas
are known as the "bearers of the golden fleece" for good reason.
Their fiber ranges from a delicate 10-15 microns and is a beautiful
dark cinnamon color. Only about 4 ounces of the best fleece can
be harvested from each animal in one year. It does contain some
guard hair which is removed, much in the same way as cashmere.
But many people think they have no guard hair because it is so
fine itself. The fiber is extremely light and quite short, being
not even one inch long. It is the most sought after fiber in the
world. It commands a high price not only because it is so rare
and fine but also because government authorities want to ensure
the vicunas' survival by making it more lucrative to shear these
beautiful creatures than to hunt them.
About
30 years ago, it became illegal to sell any part of vicunas, including
their fiber, because they were being killed for their fiber. Now,
there are very strict regulations put in place by foreign and
US governments to ensure their survival. Peace of Yarn only sells
legal vicuna fiber with documentation guaranteeing that the fiber
is from living animals taken from one of the regions where vicunas
are a "threatened" species and no longer an "endangered" species.
* V I C U N A
Vicunas are a member of the camelid family. Its closest relative
in appearance is the guanaco, although it is thought to be the
ancestor to the alpaca. Vicunas are one color, dark cinnamon backs
with white along their chests, bellies and legs. They are quite
small, generally weighing about 90 pounds and being about 3 feet
tall at their head. They originate in the Andes Mountains at an
altitude of 3700 to 5500 meters, about the timber line but below
the snow line.
A
short history of the Vicuna: Some of native tribes inhabiting
the Andes, honored the Vicuna as a holy animal, whereas other
tribes just saw a valuable bag in it. Already at the time of the
advanced civilization of the Incas the use of the Vicunas wool
played an important role. For the Spanish conquerors the wool
was of great value too. As long as the animals have just been
caught, shorn and then released again, the stocks of the Vicuna
were not in danger. But they also have been hunted and killed
for their fur, resulting in a continuous decline of their numbers.
Already in 1825 Simón Bolívar, the founder of the state of Peru,
enacted a law to protect the Vicuna. For centuries, Inca royalty
maintained strict observance of laws, which forbade commoners
to wear vicuna wool. Although the Inca rule was lost when the
Spaniards and Portuguese came to South America, the wool's regulation
continued to favor the wealthy, ruling classes because the State
governments took over ownership of the animal herds.
Today,
thanks to the efforts of dedicated and foresighted officials,
the vicuna population has reached approximately 15,000 and their
fleeces are being harvested in ways that will ensure the continued
growth of the species. The Peruvian government handed ownership
of the animals back to the common villagers of the country, creating
a viable and stable source of income for struggling villagers.
The
Peruvian government liberalized its policies on vicuña wool in
1992, and Andean communities immediately resumed the centuries-old
practice of herding and shearing the animals in a ritual known
as the chaccu. The chaccu lasts several days, with men from the
communities fanning out over the plains and slowly guiding the
herds to makeshift corrals. Once penned, a swath of wool is sheared
off their backs, and then the animals are released. Each vicuña
produces about one-quarter of a pound of wool.
The
innovative policies provide for government sponsored chacus, or
fleecing days when the vicunas are trapped and sheared (at less
than a 2% injury rate and no fatalities). In Inca days, the chacu
was the standard way of catching and fleecing vicunas, but it
fell out of favor when guns was introduced to the populace of
the country. The return to traditional methods enables the vicuna
population to continue and eliminates poaching by removing the
only thing that vicuna have worth taking. Since the villagers
maintain possession of the vicuna and the means of wool production
have been secured by the Peruvian government to stay within the
villages, the villagers now have an economically sustainable system.
While this, by no means, reduces the cost of production (quite
the opposite), it assures that vicuna wool will be available to
countless generations and that the Peruvian villagers will be
able to support themselves.
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